- Excellence
- October 9th, 2024
Viña Concha y Toro: Custodians of the history of Carmenere in Chile
The company has been a key player in the history and evolution of Carmenere in Chile, contributing significantly to the positioning of this variety as the country’s flagship grape variety.
Since its rediscovery 30 years ago, Viña Concha y Toro has led the positioning of Carmenere in Chile in the ultra-premium segment, betting decisively on this emblematic variety of Chilean viticulture. The prestigious wines Carmín de Peumo and Terrunyo are the faithful reflection of an identity forged in the iconic Peumo terroir and exemplify the winery’s committed work to demonstrate Carmenere’s unique potential and elevate it to the highest world-class standards.
The rediscovery of Carmenere in Chile is one of the most fascinating stories in the wine world. For more than a century, this variety was hidden in Chilean vineyards, mistaken for Merlot because of its similar appearance. It was in 1994 when French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot, while analysing vines in a field in Chile’s central valley, identified that what was thought to be late Merlot was actually Carmenere, an ancient Bordeaux grape variety that had been considered extinct after the phylloxera plague in Europe in the 19th century. This discovery revolutionised the Chilean wine industry, allowing the country not only to reclaim this lost variety, but also to position itself as the world’s leading producer of Carmenere, developing wines of exceptional quality that express the unique character of this grape variety.
In this context, Viña Concha y Toro has been a key player in the history and evolution of Carmenere in Chile, contributing significantly to the positioning of this variety as the country’s flagship variety. Although Carmenere originates from the Médoc region in Bordeaux, France, it was in Chile where it found its unique identity. And it is precisely in the terroir of Peumo, Viña Concha y Toro’s oldest vineyard, that the company has treasured its Carmenere vines for more than a century, thus becoming the custodian of a worldwide winemaking legacy.
The winery not only recognised the incipient value of Carmenere, but committed to take this variety to its maximum expression under the expert guidance of Marcio Ramírez, Chile’s most knowledgeable winemaker of the variety. Ramirez has made Carmenere the star of the winery’s icon wine, Carmín de Peumo, elevating it to a truly rediscovered treasure and a symbol of Chile’s extraordinary winemaking potential.
Peumo: the heart of Chilean Carmenere
The Cachapoal Valley, and specifically the Peumo vineyard, has established itself as the best terroir for Carmenere in Chile. Its exceptional conditions, with a microclimate without significant frosts in winter and spring, and nutrient-rich clay loam soils capable of retaining water, allow the clusters to remain in the vineyard for long periods of time, which is a fundamental aspect for Carmenere grapes to reach the optimum level of ripeness.
Originally planted in 1883 under the belief that it was late Merlot, Peumo has been the centre of Carmenere work for over 100 years, long before its rediscovery in the 1990s. Planted with an original massal selection of those first Bordeaux vines brought from France, this vineyard, along with Pirque, is one of the oldest in Chile and has been fundamental in shaping the national wine scene.
Viña Concha y Toro’s work with this vine has not only been a work of deep dedication, but a true rescue of Chile’s wine heritage, preserving and elevating an essential part of our heritage. Peumo is also a symbol of tradition and excellence, and a living testimony of Viña Concha y Toro’s commitment to the history and future of Carmenere.
Andrés Larraín, who was Concha y Toro’s Agricultural Director for more than three decades, points out that, although the official records have been lost, ‘the (Peumo) vineyard has been in the company’s hands since its foundation in 1883. In the mid-1970s, we undertook a process of plant identification in that vineyard,’ Larraín explains. In 1983, the winery replanted 15 hectares of Carmenere vines in Peumo, believing it to be a late-ripening Merlot variety, which corresponded to blocks 31 and 32 of the vineyard.
In 1996, together with Ignacio Recabarren -the first winemaker after Carmenere at Viña Concha y Toro and an iconic figure of this variety in Chile-, Andrés Larraín recalls that ‘we made a field selection of what we thought was Merlot and started planting the new vineyards in Peumo’.
Recabarren, with his deep understanding of the grape variety and his innovative approach, was instrumental in positioning Carmenere as an emblem of Chilean viticulture. That year, in 1996, block 27 was replanted, which would later give birth to Terrunyo, Chile’s first ultra-premium Carmenere. This wine -launched in 2000 with its 1998 vintage-, is characterised by a pure and authentic expression of Carmenere, establishing itself as the undisputed benchmark for this variety in Chile and the standard to which all other Carmenere in the country aspire. With a distinctive character and true to the variety, Terrunyo Carmenere embodies the very essence of what a great Chilean Carmenere should be.
Subsequently, the quality of the grapes and the different profile of the Carmenere found in the vineyard’s barracks 32, gave way to the creation of Carmín de Peumo, a Carmenere-based wine that also incorporates some percentages of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in its composition. ‘We were already making Terrunyo Carmenere, which stood out for its intense and deeply rooted expression of the variety. However, when we tasted the grapes from Quarters 32, we immediately noticed that this was a more subtle and delicate Carmenere, with a very distinctive finesse and elegance, very different from what we had seen before. At that moment, Carmín de Peumo was born,’ says winemaker Marcio Ramírez, a key figure in Concha y Toro’s recent history, and a profound connoisseur of Carmenere, who is currently in charge of bringing Carmenere wines to life.
Carmín de Peumo, Chile’s first icon Carmenere, was launched in 2006 and its first vintage in 2003 marked the beginning of a new era for Carmenere in Chile. ‘From the discovery of Carmenere in 1994 until 2003 – the first vintage of Carmín de Peumo – we studied the variety in depth. We wanted to know its characteristics, how to manage it and when to harvest it, and I think we now have a level of expertise that no one else in Chile has. We had been working in these vineyards since 1983 and we didn’t know it was a lost variety, but since then we have been dedicated to getting the best wine possible,’ Marcio says.
For this winemaker, who has been working with Carmenere at Viña Concha Toro for almost 30 years, the Peumo terroir is the undisputed home of Carmenere in Chile: ‘Peumo is the cradle of Carmenere. The depth of its soils, free of stones and with a constant supply of water, allows the vines to grow and develop without stress, reaching optimum levels of maturity. At the same time, it’s ideal and balanced microclimate, without extremes, is perfect for a variety that is very sensitive to low temperatures, thus creating the ideal conditions for the development of an exceptional Carmenere’.
Regarding the challenges of winemaking with this variety, Marcio comments ‘due to its long ripening cycle, which is longer than that of other grape varieties, precise management in the vineyard is required to achieve optimal balance. In addition, the variety tends to develop herbaceous aromas if not harvested on time and is sensitive to weather conditions. It is therefore essential to understand the variety, to know how to read its signals and to determine the exact moment when it is necessary to harvest. In the winery, it is also essential to manage tannin extraction to achieve a balanced and elegant wine.
And it has been the international critics themselves who have confirmed the undisputed quality of Peumo’s terroir for the cultivation of this variety, being recognised by the prestigious Wine&Spirits magazine among the 100 Best Terroirs in the World in 2012, and by the American critic James Suckling, who qualified it as a ‘Top Terroir’.
‘What distinguishes Carmenere de Peumo is its elegance and finesse. While in other regions Carmenere tends to be more opulent and concentrated, Peumo Carmenere is characterised by its freshness, elegance and finesse,’ says Marcio, adding: ’Respecting the fruit and terroir of Peumo has allowed for a modern Carmenere model, authentically reflecting the essence of its origin and the richness of its environment.
International recognition: world-class Carmenere
Since its origins, the quality of Viña Concha y Toro’s Carmenere has been internationally awarded. Since its first vintage, its icon wine Carmín de Peumo has been awarded as one of the best Carmenere in the world. It has been recognised seven times as the World’s Best Carmenere by The Wine Advocate – 2019, 2018, 2012, 2011, 2007, 2005 and 2003 vintages – a publication of the renowned US wine critic Robert Parker. It also scored 97 points in James Suckling and 98 points in the Descorchados guide, where it has also been awarded seven times as the Best Carmenere of Chile -vintages 2021, 2018, 2010, 2008, 2007, 2005 and 2003. In this way, Concha y Toro has managed to position Carmín de Peumo as the Carmenere with the highest image in the world market.
‘Carmín de Peumo is a clear example of how Carmenere can produce high-end wines that not only compete but stand out on the global stage. Its success has contributed significantly to raising Chile’s prestige as a world-class wine producer,’ explains Marcio Ramírez, winemaker and key figure in Concha y Toro’s recent history.
Terrunyo, for its part, has also shone for its great scores: it has been chosen as the Best Carmenere of Chile four times by Descorchados guide – 2021, 2011, 2010 and 2005 vintages. It has also been highlighted as the Best Carmenere of Chile on two occasions by Wine & Spirits – 2014 and 2011 vintages – and included among James Suckling’s Top 100 Wines of Chile with its 2018 vintage. It also ranked among the best wines in the world in the Wine Spectator ranking – 2006 vintage, position 63 – and was the first Carmenere in the world to be highlighted among the Top 100 Wines of this prestigious international publication.
These great recognitions not only reaffirm that this variety competes at a global level, but also that it does so with a unique identity forged in the Peumo terroir. Its legacy in Chilean viticulture is profound, and its unwavering commitment to quality has been key to its success. Both Carmín de Peumo and Terrunyo Carmenere not only represent different expressions of the Peumo terroir, but are also living symbols of Chile’s winemaking history, embodying Viña Concha y Toro’s passion and commitment to establishing Carmenere as the country’s emblematic grape variety.